Strand thickness, or texture, refers to the width of a single hair strand—and it’s the trait that changes your entire routine.
As dumb luck would have it, many of us spend years using products meant for someone else’s hair. We see a shiny, light-refracting serum on a runway and think, “I need that,” only to find it leaves our fine strands looking like they’ve been through a period moving picture set in the rain. Strand width influences how much product, heat, and manipulation your hair can handle, and ignoring it is a recipe for disaster. It’s like applying a heavy, blue-toned greasepaint foundation when your skin really just needs a dusting of color.
Fine hair can be easily weighed down by heavy butters, while coarse hair often requires stronger products to stay hydrated and manageable. It’s all about the prep. If you have fine strands, you want light, airy mousses that don’t crack when your expression changes. If your strands are coarse, you need the “Flexible Greasepaint” equivalent of hair care—something that can move with you without becoming unusable. Much like Joan Crawford’s signature “smeared” lip, coarse hair needs products that extend far beyond the natural line of the cuticle to provide real depth.
The Texture Guide
Fine strands are delicate and prone to breakage, requiring a gentle hand and minimal heat. They are the orthochromatic film of the hair world—sensitive to everything and easily damaged. Medium strands are the versatile middle ground, while coarse strands are incredibly strong but can be resistant to moisture. By identifying your strand thickness, you can adjust your heat settings and manipulation levels to prevent damage and maximize your hair’s natural strength. It’s like insurance for your hair—you’re doubling your wearability and ensuring your style sets perfectly every time.
A Final Note on Shine
When Technicolor was on the horizon, Max Factor sprinkled gold dust onto Marlene Dietrich’s wigs to capture the glow. If you have coarse hair, you might need that extra “gold dust” in the form of heavy oils to get that same incandescent shine. Fine hair, meanwhile, should stick to the “X-Rated” lip gloss approach—high shine, but light enough to keep things moving. Once you master this technical shift, you’ll finally have a look that is classic and predictable (in a good way). Something I think we’re all still kind of into.
—Lauren Maas