2C, 3B, 4A—these alphanumeric codes have become the shorthand of the curly world. But where did this system come from, and why does it often feel like it’s missing the bigger picture? In this Cultural Snapshot, we look at the history of the hair-typing system and why the modern curly community is starting to look beyond the chart.
The Origin Story
The system most of us use today was popularized in the 1990s by celebrity stylist Andre Walker. At the time, it was a revolutionary tool that provided a shared language for a community that had been largely ignored by mainstream beauty. It categorized hair from Type 1 (straight) to Type 4 (coily), creating a framework for product development and styling advice. For the first time, people had a way to describe their hair that didn’t involve terms like “unruly” or “difficult.”
The Limits of the Chart
However, as our understanding of textured hair has evolved, the limits of the system have become clear. The chart focuses almost entirely on the “curl pattern”—the shape the hair makes. But as any curly person knows, pattern is only one piece of the puzzle. It doesn’t account for porosity (how your hair absorbs moisture), density (how much hair you have), or the cultural significance of certain styles. By focusing too narrowly on a number and a letter, we risk oversimplifying the complex, beautiful reality of textured hair. The future of hair care isn’t about fitting into a box; it’s about understanding the unique needs of your own crown.